Curly hair: the complete routine (simplified curly method)
Curly hair is beautiful, but it requires specific care. Due to its shape, natural sebum struggles to travel down the hair shaft, meaning curls tend to be drier and more prone to frizz. The so-called curly method was created precisely to respect these characteristics. In this guide, we offer a simplified version without rigid rules: a complete routine, from washing to the next day, that you can adapt to your own curls.
1. Washing: gentle shampoos
The first step is to choose a gentle shampoo that cleanses without drying out the hair. Shampoos with overly aggressive surfactants can leave curls feeling rough and frizzy. Many people with curly hair prefer "low-poo" formulas, which are low-lather and gentler.
- Focus the shampoo on your scalp, massaging with your fingertips.
- Let the lather run down the lengths as you rinse, without rubbing them.
- Use lukewarm, not boiling, water.
Some products designed for curls include Mananà Miracurl Curl Care Shampoo and Wella Nutricurls Waves Shampoo, which is also suitable for wavy hair.
Every once in a while, especially if you use many styling products, it can be useful to use a more clarifying shampoo to remove buildup.
2. Conditioner: always
For curls, conditioner is indispensable. Apply it generously to the lengths and ends, and take this moment to detangle: using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots. Curly hair detangles much better when wet and coated in conditioner; on the other hand, it is best not to brush it while dry so as not to break the curl shape and create frizz.
3. The weekly mask
Once a week, replace your conditioner with a nourishing mask, leaving it on for a few extra minutes. It helps keep your curls soft, elastic, and well-defined. You can try the Pharma Complex Curly Hair Mask with Keratin, or choose a complete line like the Kérastase Curl Manifesto kit, which includes shampoo, conditioner, and a mask.
If your curls are also bleached or very damaged, consider a reconstructive treatment: you can find the differences in our guide to bond repair treatments.
4. Leave-in and styling products
After rinsing, with your hair still wet, it is time for styling. Curls form best on wet hair, so do not wait for it to dry.
Leave-in
A leave-in conditioner hydrates and serves as a base for other products. If you have fine curls, opt for a light spray formula.
Cream, mousse, or gel?
- Cream: nourishes and defines softly. Ideal for dry, thick, or frizzy curls. For example, the Fanola Fantouch Get Curl.
- Mousse: light, provides volume without weighing down. Perfect for wavy hair and fine curls. The L'Oréal Curl Expression kit combines a cream-in-mousse with a leave-in spray.
- Gel: offers the firmest hold and helps control frizz, especially in humid conditions. Such as the Kérastase Gelée Curl Revelation.
Many people combine cream and gel: first the cream to nourish, then the gel to set. Apply the products section by section using the praying hands technique (sliding the section between your joined palms) or by scrunching the hair from bottom to top.
The gel often creates a "cast" when it dries: this is normal. When your hair is completely dry, gently scrunch it with your hands to soften it and get curls that are soft but defined.
5. Microfiber towel and plopping
A traditional terry cloth towel, when rubbed on the hair, is one of the main culprits of frizz. It is better to use a microfiber towel or a simple cotton t-shirt to gently pat and scrunch your curls.
Plopping is a technique that involves wrapping your hair in a microfiber towel or t-shirt, gathering it on top of your head, and letting it sit for a few minutes. It helps absorb excess water without undoing the curls and encourages volume at the roots.
6. Drying with a diffuser
You can let your curls air dry or use a blow dryer with a diffuser. The diffuser distributes airflow more gently so that curls dry without being disrupted.
- Use medium-low heat and speed settings.
- Place sections into the diffuser and bring it close to your head without moving it too much.
- Avoid touching your hair while it dries: it increases frizz.
If your hair dryer doesn't have one, you can choose a universal diffuser like the Parlux Magic Compact Diffuser.
7. Next-day refresh
Curls don't necessarily need to be washed every day. The next day, you can revive them with a refresh: spray a little water or a specific spray, like the Redken Refreshing Curl Mist, and reshape the curls with your fingers. If needed, add a small amount of cream to the frizziest sections.
To protect your curls while you sleep, gather them loosely on top of your head and use a silk or satin pillowcase, which reduces friction.
Most common mistakes
- Brushing dry curls: breaks the shape and creates frizz.
- Using too much product: curls become weighed down and lose volume. It's better to add a little at a time.
- Applying styling on nearly dry hair: curls define much better on wet hair.
- Rubbing with a towel: patting is better.
- Frequently using a flat iron: frequent heat can weaken the curl shape. If you want to straighten them occasionally, read how to protect hair from damage.
Which one to choose?
- Wavy or fine hair: gentle shampoo, light conditioner, leave-in spray, and mousse.
- Defined but frizz-prone curls: cream plus gel, to nourish and set.
- Very dry or thick curls: weekly mask, rich cream, and an oil for the ends.
There is no one-size-fits-all routine: experiment, observe how your curls respond, and adjust the products and quantities.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I wash curly hair?
It depends on your scalp and lifestyle, but many people with curls wash them every two to three days, doing a refresh on the days in between.
Must I use silicone-free products?
It is not mandatory. The traditional curly method avoids them, but the most important thing is that the products you choose leave your curls feeling soft and defined.
Cream or gel: which is better?
Cream nourishes and softens, while gel sets and controls frizz. Often, combining the two yields the best results.
Does a diffuser damage curls?
No, if you use it at a moderate temperature. In fact, compared to a hair dryer without a diffuser, it helps maintain the curl shape.
Leave a comment